From the Etruscans to the Middle Ages

The thematic itinerary among the testimonies of the Middle Ages in Montalbano is rich in monuments that testify to the intricate events of which the area was the scene. The imprint of the whole territory, both in its western and eastern sides, is historically medieval. Beyond a toponymy that can be traced back to the Etruscan and Roman times (the toponym of Montalbano would derive from a pre-Indo-European alba-alpa idiom, meaning ‘mountain’ and Lamporecchio from ‘blade’ in the sense of ‘water’), the they are essentially castles and fortified villages, numerous especially towards the Valdinievole, and parish churches, frequent, vice versa, especially on the eastern side, towards Pistoia. As for the prehistoric period, some finds of chipped stones suggest the presence of hunters and fishermen in the southern area of Montalbano, while the remaining part, swampy in the plain and covered by forests on the hills, would not have been permanently inhabited. On the other hand, the Etruscan testimonies are relevant, most of which is concentrated in the Carmignano area. From antiquity through the Middle Ages, Montalbano saw the succession of Romans, Lombards, Carolingians, the Ottoni Empire, up to the rebirth of the year 1000, and then again it was the scene of struggles between Pistoia, Florence and Lucca, with a peak of armed clashes in the early decades of the fourteenth century. Only the submission of Pistoia to Florence (1306) brought a period of relative tranquility. In an ideal and physical path, from north to south, the path in the medieval Montalbano starts from Serravalle Pistoiese, which in Roman times was crossed by the Via Cassia. Here you can admire the Porta della Gabella (13th century), the Old Fortress with its square tower, and the New one with the hexagonal tower (1318). The Church of San Michele dates back to the eleventh / twelfth century, with seventeenth-century alterations, with important examples of Romanesque terracotta brackets in the apse. It preserves the fresco of the Miracle of San Biagio by anonymous dating from the first half of the 300, as well as the triptych of Bartolomeo by Andrea Bocchi da Pistoia (1438) depicting the Madonna enthroned with the Child, two angels and Saints Ippolito, Jacopo, Michele and Stefano . A special mention also deserves the Church of Santo Stefano, documented from the second half of the thirteenth century, in Romanesque style. It was set on fire in 1501 during the fights between the Panciatichi and the Chancellors, so the interior was rebuilt in Baroque style. Also of interest is the cycle of frescoes recently discovered and recovered in the Oratory of the Assumption of the Virgin, made by artists of the Pistoian school with Giotto influence. In the Rocca Vecchia there is the Barbarossa tower, 40 meters high and dating back to 1177. Well preserved, the Rocca Nuova was built by the Lucchesi on the west side, dominating the Valdinievole; with a triangular plan, it has a quadrangular bastion (accessible and from which you can enjoy a suggestive view of the Valdinievole), a pentagonal bastion connected by a walkway to the hexagonal tower commissioned by the Lucca commander Castruccio Castracani. Going down the eastern side of Montalbano you reach Quarrata, where the Church of Santa Maria Assunta is located, with a Romanesque structure but remodeled in the last decades of the nineteenth century. After Quarrata, in Tizzana, there is the Pieve di San Bartolomeo, which already existed in 1138. In the locality of Buriano the Church of San Michele Arcangelo and the rectory clearly show the systems of the medieval masonry. Also from north to south, it is possible to travel through medieval history starting from Monsummano Terme, where the first Florentine Podestà settled in 1331; in the upper part, Monsummano presents the vestiges of the circle of the ancient walls, a pentagonal tower (XIV century) and two medieval access doors. In the village there are the Church of San Niccolao (XII century) and the bell tower (XIII century). In Montevettolini, between Monsummano and Larciano, the towers of the castle, whose existence is documented in the 12th century, survive, transformed into the bell tower, into the body of a Medici Villa and into a corner of the Palazzo Comunale, which in turn dates back to to the XII century. To visit the Church of San Michele Arcangelo and San Lorenzo Martire (witnessed in 1260), with a bell tower obtained from a tower. Inside there are various paintings of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Unmissable is a view of Larciano and, in particular, of its fortified village (13th century). There is a 36-meter high quadrangular tower, perhaps of a pre-existing structure to the fortress, built after 1226, the year in which the descendants of the Guido Guerra di Modigliana account sold Larciano to the Municipality of Pistoia. At the center of the fortress there is a cistern, which indicates the potential water autonomy of the fortification in the event of a siege. The fortress houses the Civic Museum, with finds ranging from the prehistoric age to the Renaissance. As far as Prehistory is concerned, the Museum collects lithic tools found in the Larciano area (including scrapers from the Upper Paleolithic, a Neolithic arrow cusp), the objects of one of the funerary tombs for incineration of Poggioni, Roman coins, cinerary jars and poculum, 14th and 15th century majolica, Renaissance majolica, Etruscan ceramics, fibulae and objects and fragments also coming from areas other than Montalbano. Also in Larciano stands the Church of San Silvestro (1260), deeply remodeled in the following centuries.

Not far from Larciano is Cecina, on the road from Biccimurri. Its aspect is that of fortification; two of the three ancient access doors remain. In the village there is the Church of San Niccolò (XIII – XIV century). The medieval history of Montalbano also has a symbolic center, which is also the center of the hilly ridge: San Baronto. Place of pass since the earliest times between the Pistoia plain and the Val di Nievole, San Baronto owes its name to the pilgrim of Frankish origin who lived here as a hermitage until his death in 681. On the site of the hermitage a church was built, already attested in the year 1000, belonging to the local Benedictine monastery. The Church, which can still be visited and dedicated to San Baronto, is a clear example of Romanesque in bare stone, inside with a single nave, a Latin cross crypt. Inside, on the altar, a wooden crucifix from the 14th century. The town can be reached from Lamporecchio, on the west side of Montalbano, and from the road between Casalguidi and Quarrata, on the eastern side of Montalbano. In Lamporecchio it is suggested to visit the Pieve di S. Stefano. The current building is recent (1900 – 1921), but stands on a wall system of the fourteenth century. (fine glazed terracotta altarpiece by Giovanni della Robbia). The western side, after passing Lamporecchio, continues its journey through medieval history in Vinci, where we recommend a visit to the splendid Castle of the Counts Guidi, related to Matilde di Canossa and favored in numerous knightly and noble rights such as the possibility of burial in the cathedral of Pistoia and the title of one of the city gates. The castle of Vinci, built around the year 1000, was given by the Guidi to the Municipality of Florence in the 13th century. The strategic position of the castle, located between Pisa, Lucca and Pistoia, made Vinci an outpost of particular interest, to the point of attracting the attention first of Castruccio Castracani (1326) and then of Giovanni Acuto (1364-65). The castle was originally accessible from two doors; high up, in the Middle Ages as today, the fortress. Various alterations have partially modified its structure, without however affecting its structural strength and striking visual impact. It currently houses the Leonardian Museum. Near the castle is the Romanesque church of Santa Croce. Nearby, Sant’Ansano in Greti (Church of S. Giovanni Battista; preserves the Giotto altarpiece Sant’Ansano and angels) and S. Amato (Church of S. Pietro, whose construction is traced back to a specific will by Matilde di Canossa). In the direction of the Fucecchio Marshes, Cerreto Guidi preserves traces of the walls, remains of the enclosure consisting of 8 towers portrayed by Leonardo in one of his drawings. Not far from Cerreto Guidi are Bassa (Church of Santa Maria Assunta, which already existed in 998) and Gavena (traces of the ancient Church, dating back to 1260, incorporated into private homes). Moving west, we suggest a visit to the medieval village of Capraia, where the Church of Santo Stefano incorporates, in the lower part, the remains of the castle walls. Finally, in the south-eastern offshoot of Montalbano there are the medieval architectures of Carmignano: the fortress (whose existence is witnessed in 1125), the city walls (XIV century), the Church of San Michele and San Francesco (XIV century .) and the Abbey of San Giusto al Pinone (XII century), with an interesting crypt. In the surroundings of Carmignano it is suggested to visit Seano (medieval church dedicated to San Pietro) and Artimino (bridge, castle, access door, remains of the ancient walls and Pieve di San Leonardo and Santa Maria, built, according to tradition, by Matilde di Canossa).

Carmignano, the Etruscan warrior and his lady

Charm and mystery accompany the reconstruction of Etruscan history, which also left important traces on Montalbano. The area that more than any other offers the opportunity to visit and learn about the Etruscan history of Montalbano is that of Carmignano, where there was an inhabited nucleus in the seventh century. BC In the municipal area of Carmignano, in Artimino, at the Medici Villa “La Fernanda” there is the Archaeological Museum which collects the most important finds. These finds come from Montereggi and above all from Comeana, where various excavations conducted in the 1960s have brought to light a necropolis. Two tombs, one circular and one rectangular, were found in the Montefortini tumulus. Not far from the Montefortini tumulus, the Etruscan tomb of the Boschetti was found, containing weapons and horse bits (for this reason it is also called the “warrior’s tomb” ) and feminine jewelry. Everything therefore suggests that the tomb hosted a man and his companion in life and death. Other finds come from the necropolis of Prato del Rosello, including five tumuli of the VIII-VII century BC. The most precious piece preserved in the Archaeological Museum of Artimino is a bucchero censer dated VII – VI century. BC: it is composed of five elements, joined together by pins and joints and has a trumpet support, with engraved carvings.

The two fortresses of Serravalle

The defense system of Serravalle is set on two fortresses: the Old one, which tradition traces back to the Lombard era and which was strengthened in 1177, and the New one, on the west side of the town, built by the Lucchesi starting from 1302. In the perimeter of the Rocca Vecchia there is the quadrangular tower called “del Barbarossa”, 40 meters high, while in the New one stands the hexagonal tower, built by Castruccio Castracani.

Guido